Ingredients

2 dried bay leaves 

3 to 5 sprigs flat-leaf parsley 

3 to 5 sprigs thyme 

3 to 5 sprigs tarragon 

3 to 5 sprigs dill 

1 tablespoon fennel seeds 

1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns 

4 tablespoons unsalted butter 

2 large leeks, white and pale-green parts, quartered lengthwise and sliced 1/2 inch thick, washed well 

1 large Spanish onion, cut into 1-inch pieces 

1 pound white mushrooms, quartered 

2 carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces 

2 celery stalks, cut into 1-inch pieces 

1 fennel bulb, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces 

7 pounds heads and bones of non-oily fish, such as sole, flounder, or bass 

3 cups dry white wine 

Preparation

Make a bouquet garni by tying bay leaves, parsley, thyme, tarragon, dill, fennel seeds, and peppercorns in a piece of cheesecloth; set aside.

Melt the butter in the stockpot over medium-high heat. Add leeks, onion, mushrooms, carrots, celery, and fennel; cook until vegetables are tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Raise heat to high, and add fish heads and bones, wine, reserved bouquet garni, and enough water to just cover the bones (about 4 1/2 quarts). Bring mixture to a boil; reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer 25 minutes. Skim scum from surface with a large spoon, as needed.

Prepare an ice bath. Remove stockpot from heat, and strain stock through a fine sieve into a large heat-proof bowl set in the ice bath, and let cool slightly before using or storing.